Eight years after her graduation, Mary Katrantzou has returned to fill the atrium of Central Saint Martins with sparkle at the presentation of her new collection SS16.
Cosmology, labyrinths, chaos, and folklore mood infused the atmosphere. After her Fall 2015 collection which was far from the personal style of the designer, prints are back.
The whole idea of the collection was based on “Layers of magical realism”, as Katrantzou said. Short dresses with micro sequins, tiny flower prints, metallic brocades, crystals, and quilting were bold and at the same time very delicate. The effect of the folklore patterns, the metallic details, and the dark fabrics reminded of the ambiance of the film “Time of the Gipsies” by Emir Kusturica, a Serbian filmmaker. This film might was an influence on the designer. Different elements from Balkan wedding clothes and pieces from Mediterranean countries were creating shapes, and colors. At the same time, a story was narrated and was creating strong feelings of surprise, joy and anticipation. Booties and sandals with Perspex high heels made their own fashion statement. It was a bright and magical world that Katrantzou had in her mind.Only Katrantzou with her striking prints could successfully described this magical world. In every presentation of her collections, the audience craves for more about the development of her prints, and she always succeeds in impressing them. Not unfairly, she has been named the “Queen of the Prints”. σ